You can leave your hat on…

Today Fashionurbia is hosting an amazing guest post by architect and industrial designer, Gokalp Ekremoglu. So get prepared to indulge yourself with some knowledge you wouldn’t normally get only by looking at a final product. 

Born in Ankara Turkey, Gokalp studied architecture at YTU Istanbul and Industrial design at MU Fine Arts Istanbul. He worked both at design - project studios and execution fields and participated in multinational projects. Besides, he is interested in fashion design, music and tango. He is currently living in Bucharest Romania.

What Gokalp Ekremoglu did in this article I would compare to the process of deconstructing when drawing a live figure. That is, in order to understand how inspiration from other disciplines can generate innovative fashion creations, he deconstructed Hussein Chalayan’s fashion and art works. 

And now,  I will let you enjoy the post:

Baby

 take off your coat

real slow.

Take off your shoes

I’ll take off your shoes.

Baby

take off your dress

yes

yes

yes.

You can leave your hat on -

You can leave your hat on -

You can leave your hat on.

It is almost impossible not to remember this song from Joe Cocker after watching the cloth dissappear and leave only the hat on a model in such an impressive way that amazed the audience with the technology integrated to fashion design during Hussein Chalayan’s spring summer 2007 collection cat walk, namely “One Hundred and Eleven”. 

  

I do not think that Hussein Chalayan did get some inspiration from these lyrics at all, he sure had some other motives and ideas while creating his designs but if we focus on the sentence ” you can leave your hat on” emphasizing the word “on” we may even match its other meanings with his some other works.

For example take autumn winter 2007 collection and you will see the hats glowing in the dark with integrated lights on almost like a lamp, 

   

 or spring summer 2008 collection hats with mobile laser lights moving with programmed servo motors.

Further more if we consider the word ‘on’ referring “starting an action – as in the function of an on/off button on an industrial product-  we may see the hats in the spring summer 2007 and autumn winter 2007 collections do really have  hidden mechanisms that can be turned on and off.

 

  

He sure did not limit himself only to applying these technologies and techniques to hats but almost to all the clothes he designed in these collections. In Autumn Winter 2007 for example it is possible to display a digital animation on the entire cloth that contains LEDs all over and function almost like a screen.

   

These futuristic designs of Hussein Chalayan do make us wonder and redifine the blurred borders between the fashion design and product design.

 In our daily life we can easily observe that some items have different variations those can be classified as fashion or product designs very sharply. Bags, hats, shoes or eyeglasses for example, while there are very fancy designer sunglasses on one end, we can find very industrial, functional, protective glasses (for some works like welding lets say) on the other end. 

  

For a person looking at these two different types of glasses, it is very easy to distinguish and classify them. I think, what Hussein Chalayan doing is, somehow removing the boundries between fashion and industrial product design and come up with innovative new designs that have features from both ends yet still remaining in the fashion side with technology and extra functions added to aestetics.

 

To be clearer we may break down some elements of industrial product design, architecture and fashion design that Hussein Chalayan utilizes on his works: a-materials; b-textures; c-forms; d-pneumatic systems and structures; e-aerodynamics; f-moving mechanisms/animatronics; g-lights; h-layers/composites; i-production method. 

 MATERIALS While fabrics are the basic element for fashion design, Hussein Chalayan adds some other materials those mainly used in industrial products and architecture like plastic, glass, paper, wood, fiber glass, resin, to his designs.

   TEXTURES Besides using different textured fabrics together, due to the materials mentioned above his designs also contain the textures of these materials enriching his works.

   FORMS Using the above mentioned materials he gets the ability to obtain new forms especially through plastic and fiber glass with resin, which cause his designs to have more industrial look, even like a smooth aeroplane surface.

  

PNEUMATIC SYSTEMS AND STRUCTURE Pneumatic systems are air or gas pumped elements that are being used in many industrial products and architecture, Hussein Chalayan integrated this technology in his collection autumn winter 2003.

 

  

 AERODYNAMICS Aerodynamics is a branch of physics studying the relationship between the air and forms of the moving objects and vehicles, in his autumn winter 2007 collection Hussein Chalayan designed clothes which remain floating almost like parachutes when they are forced with flow of air underneath, these clothes contain some carefully placed holes for airflow and some plastic structures.

   MOVING MECHANISMS / ANIMATRONICS Manuel or automated moving parts and mechanisms are used in industrial products quite often. In aw 99 , ss2000, ss2007, Hussein Chalayan added moving parts and pieces on his designs by adopting some mechanical designs and controls underneath the clothes. He prefers to use the term Animatronics, which is basicly utilizing electronic control systems on robotic mechanisms. Via this technology he is able to transform one cloth into another.

  

  

  LIGHTS As a part of new technology he integrated laser and LED lights to his designs in the collections of autumn winter 99, autumn winter 07 and spring summer 08.

   LAYERS / COMPOSITES In his spring summer 2003 collection, he transformed clothes from being one layer of fabric covering the body, into multi layered composites like a product or industrial material with different parts and layers one under the other.

 

 PRODUCTION METHOD In spring/summer ‘00 and autumn/winter ‘00 collections he used a production method that is mainly used in industry and sculpting, which is to carve from a whole solid body material until reaching to a desired shape using a milling / lathe machine or cnc machine with 3 or 5 axis. 

   

In conclusion, although the ideas mentioned above only reflect my personal thoughts those formed upon observing Hussein Chalayan’s works, I can surely state that Hussein Chalayan takes the fashion design to new waters and forces its boundaries via interdiciplinary studies with industrial design, architecture and applying new technologies and techniques. I must remind the reader that this article only covers the some technical aspects of  Hussein Chalayan’s designs, as an artist behind all these designs, he also has conceptual approaches and feeling of aestetics and art which should seperately be studied to fully understand his works.

Guest post by Gokalp Ekremoglu

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How to start a collection

A successful, that is a financially viable collection requires a great amount of research, investigation and planning. Successful designers, manufacturers and retailers have a clear understanding of their customer and their needs, as well as understanding their position relative to their competition.  


Besides creating the concept of a collection and manufacturing it, one have to consider a range of issues like construction and retail prices, as well as a sufficient customer base. Also, whether the garments are delivered at the right time to the stores and the stores pay for the stock at an agreed time frame. Then, there is a good chance to start a fashion business.

By offering a product that is not currently available, or one with an added value quality, fashion buyers will consider stocking pieces from the collection. If the pieces sell quickly and at the full retail price, the buyer will reorder and replace the stock, or plan to order the following season.

Having all this information in mind, think about ways of creating market demand and stay tuned for further details regarding developing fashion collections. 

___________________

You might also like:

What is a collection

Persuading retailers to stock your designs

How to manipulate various colors and texture effects on your fashion illustrations using Photoshop

One day, I have discovered a pleasant surprise on the Fashionurbia’s Facebook page: a tutorial on how to manipulate various colors and texture effects on your fashion illustrations using Photoshop. It was posted by Chetna Shetty, fashion designer and illustrator from Mumbai, India.

As I found it very useful, I decided to share here the link to the post on her blog, where she describes, step by step, how you can get from here:

 

To here:


So, have fun! 

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How to become a fashion designer

One of the most fashionable and debated topics among fashion lovers and sympathizers is how to become a fashion designer. There are those who say that you don’t need to attend a fashion school in order to make your dream come true. And there are those who support the opposite point of view. If you ask me, none of them are wrong. Yet, it’s a matter of personal choice, aspiration and persistence.

I choose the fashion school accompanied by all other means you can only imagine, like self learning, learning by doing, internships, etc.

If you are not sure yet which of the two ways is for you, and even if you do, it’s worth seeing more points of view, and then choose the strategy that fits you best.

Among others, here’s an interesting material that includes some arguments and explanations on this matter.

Which one do you believe is best?

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6 Simple Steps on How to Paint Your Own Oiginal T-shirt

There are numerous techniques for adding a great design to your T-shirt. Paint, dye, color spray or print to make your own innovative textile creations. But, I think that the most adorable and exclusive T-shirts are the ones painted.

So, today I invited artist and illustrator Maryanne Oliver, to write a guest post, an useful guide that will help you to prepare the T-shirt, to choose the correct fabric paint and provide guides and tips to create for yourself the perfect hand painted T-shirt.

Prepare yourself, get your paints and pens ready! It’s time to create something beautiful for you to wear!

In this photo, artist Maryanne Oliver and her amazing illustrations.

* STEP 1 * Choose the materials you’ll need *

  • T-Shirt - 100% cotton will get fabulous results, avoid lycra based fabrics for painting.
  • Fabric Paints - Invest in a high quality fabric paint. It will make a huge difference. I use Pebeo
  • Fabric Pens - I use “Y & C FabricMate” pens
  • Thick piece of cardboard
  • Paint brushes
  • Hair Dryer
  • Iron
  • Paper Towels
  • Piece of scrap fabric - for ironing

* STEP 2 * Prepare your materials and find some inspiration *

Place your shirt on a nice flat surface, with the cardboard placed inside the shirt to allow you to paint on (without paint going through to other side). Select your colors you wish to paint with. I have used black only on this shirt, not only to keep the process simple, but it looks stunning also! Pick out a picture you wish you use or your design for your shirt. It can be a fashion photo from a magazine, a picture, something that you like.

* STEP 3 * Outline a rough sketch on the T-shirt

It’s time to draw a rough sketch of your design or idea on to the shirt, either with a fabric pencil or a lead pencil is fine as you will be painting over it anyway.  Do not be too precious, its just a rough sketch. Pour paints on to your palette ready to go, make sure you water the paint down as much as possible as the lighter the paint the easier it will be to work with and you can always build the tone up as you go along. But it’s better to start light.

Remember don’t be afraid of making mistakes! There are no mistakes in art! You can always cover it up or work around it, so removing that fear from the start will make the process so much more enjoyable and easier!

* STEP 4 * Start to paint the tones and shadows to your sketch *

The most important thing is to not worry about paint spilling during this process. Have your paper towels ready on hand, and if you really are not happy with the paint running then just blotch it hard with paper towels and you will find that will absorb the paint.

Fabric paints watered down will bleed on fabric also, so try to make this work with your design and like I mentioned earlier use the paint lightly. So in small amounts at a time. Use light paint strokes when you are getting started and especially when working on detail on the face. You can load up on paint when you paint the tones and shadows and hair etc. Use light free brush strokes as you paint. Remember what I said about relaxing, this is the key to beautiful brush strokes that flow freely, trust yourself and what you are doing.

* STEP 5 * Dry your painting. Take care of the shadings!

The good thing about a really nice thick piece of cardboard inside the shirt, means you can load up on water and paint as you feel needed. If it gets too wet just dry off with a hairdryer, this is fantastic when you are doing the detail on the face etc, In this way you can take care of your shading, then dry it off and finish the final details without having to wait around or any running of paint.

* STEP 6 * Fix the latest details. Iron the T-shirt.

Your shirt should be starting to look pretty impressive by now! Once all the paint has been dried off you can start to do the final details with your fabric pens. The eyes, nose, detail on the mouth, outer lining and also smaller finishing touches to the hair. Once you have completed all the detail, dry off completely or allow to dry naturally.

After the T-shirt is dried, place your piece of cotton fabric over the top and iron press the shirt to allow the paint to seal further. Once the paint has sealed allow your shirt to sit over night, then iron again the next day.  I always like to hand wash the shirt the next day once all the paint is sealed, and allow shirt to drip dry in the shade. Once dry iron yet again, and your beautiful piece of art will be ready to wear!

Congratulations!

Your shirt is complete and by this time you should feel pretty impressed with yourself. Enjoy!

All photos are copyright Maryanne Oliver

So, dear friend, if you want to try it for yourself, the entire process of painting will take you almost two hours and one day for drying. Then you can wear the beautiful piece.

Thank you my dear Maryanne for your inspiring post! For more fabulous and inspiring artwork of artist Maryanne Oliver check out her website.

Article edited by Iulia Stanescu

The creativity song or how to increase your creativity

You have possibly read about ways or techniques to increase your creativity. I did it, too. But this one, I have experienced myself recently so I decided to share it with you.

You know that sounds, color, smells, tastes, images are able to recall certain memories or states at human beings. So, while working in my class during the fashion drawing for beginners short course at Central Saint Martins in London, they put us several times this song.

After one week, I randomly heard the same song in a different scenery, but I suddenly felt a crazy will to start drawing. I felt a boost of creativity and a will to create.
The same can happen with any kind of set: smell, decor, color.

If you don’t have such a set that could boost your creativity due to previous experience, you can simply create one. If you want it to be a song, train your mind. While working listen for the same song several times. After a while listen again to the same song.

See what happens. Then enjoy your creativity boost!

By Catalina Rusu

Top 10 Qualities of a Great Fashion Designer

The fashion industry is exploding and everyone, it seems, is vying for a part in the action. To get ahead in the business and sit with the ranks of Ralph Lauren and Calvin Klein, you as an aspiring designer should have some of the same qualities as the world’s top designers. Here are some of the qualities you’ll need to succeed as a designer:

  1. Strong Business Sense
    A great fashion designer has excellent business skills. You understand budgets, marketing, and sales concepts that are vital to getting designs produced and sold.
  2. Good Communication
    A number of people are involved in the creation of a garment, and as designer, you must be able to effectively communicate to everyone involved what he or she expects.
  3. Sense of Competition
    You continually strive to do better than your peers to come up with quality innovative designs quickly.
  4. Highly Creative
    You have a great sense of style and are constantly coming up with new ideas for fashions.
  5. Strong Drawing Skills
    Excellent drawing skills mean you can easily sketch your ideas onto paper to start the production process.
  6. Good Eye for Materials
    You have an eye for the materials of a garment, as well as the elements that make it unique, such as color and fabric.
  7. Strong Sewing Skills
    You can construct the garments you design. You understand what materials work best in the designs you are developing.
  8. Team Player
    Great fashion designers work well as part of a team. Designing a garment for production involves the work of many, from pattern making to sewing to shipping. As designer, you must be able to work well with all involved.
  9. Knowledgeable of Current Fashion Trends
    You follows trends and have a good eye for anticipating what your audience will respond to next.
  10. Strong Visualization Abilities
    Good fashion designers can visualize a garment before ever putting an idea on paper. You can see the finished product well before production and can put your ideas into words and onto paper so others can grasp the idea as well.

Source: Fashion Schools

by Iulia Stanescu

We put our shoes on and went get our dream!

The beginning. Who are the two pixies?

We are two friends who got tired of searching for the perfect pair of shoes in the colors and the dimensions we wanted and decided to make our own. And, after seeing that people liked the pairs we made for ourselves, we started making shoes for our friends and from that to creating Pixie Shoes was only a step.

Another reason for starting this business was the fact that we were beginning to go over our budget when it came to shoes and the obvious solution was to share our ideas with our customers and incorporate their wishes in our designs.

We both studied at the Academy of Economic Studies, Eva having a degree in Economic Studies in French and she is now studying for a master degree in Marketing, while I studied Statistics and have a Masters Degree in Communication and Public Relations (French).

I am currently working in Market Research for an automobile company while Eva is still studying and managing the administrative part of Pixie Shoes while I try to take care of promoting our story.

What does the creative process look like?

The models are usually a combination of our ideas, the international trends and improvements made after our friends or us test the “prototypes”.

We collaborate with a workhouse and the lovely people from there do their best to transform all our dreams and wishes into palpable reality, that is our design ideas into shoes.

When we want to create a new model the first question we ask ourselves is: “Would we wear this model?”, followed by: “How comfortable would it be?”

Our goals

Pixie Shoes tries to combine in the best possible way the trend, the comfort and to add some color to the grey city. Even though we try to promote high heels, our shoes are very comfortable and once you try them on you will never want to quit wearing them.

We can offer shoes with numbers from 35 to 40, having the possibility, for certain models, to offer also the numbers 34 and 41. For special orders, or more models for the same client we can make a special number.

Another important aspect, the prices are established keeping in mind the materials that are used and of course the manual labor.

Our muse

We are inspired by what would we wear, what we see on the streets, in magazines, in the shops, on fashion sites and blogs. The colors are carefully chosen to make the shoes stand out but not in an aggressive way. We try to make shoes for all women, shoes that can be worn in the office, on the streets and for special occasions. That is why our shoes are very comfortable.

What about selling shoes online?

We know, shoes and selling online may seem an odd association and probably many women don’t dare to order their shoes on the Internet because they are afraid they won’t match the number or their wishes. The big advantage of selling shoes online is the price which one may keep in reasonable ranges taking into account that they are handmade using the best materials. Also, the customers can send us all the details regarding sizes and a footprint so that we can be able to make the perfect shoes for them. If the pair doesn’t match it can be sent back and replaced with the right number.

Promotion

For promoting our shoes we use mainly the online environment, we try to get as many articles about us as possible in the online versions of magazines. We are active on Facebook and Twitter. We are members of the Romanian fashion bloggers community.

In addition, we participate at hand-made and vintage fairs and we have catalogs in a few selected locations.

Another important thing is word of mouth, our friends being our main spokespeople.

Some advices

Although we adore doing this, there are sometimes difficulties we need to surpass. And the fact that we are quite new to this domain and that we prepared for very different careers can sometimes be a minus. However, we learned from our mistakes. We try to prevent them and nothing can beat the feeling of seeing our ideas being appreciated by others. That is the only boost we need for continuing despite the hard parts of the process.

The problem in this business is the fact that there isn’t a textbook to read or a users’ guide to follow its instructions, you have to learn everything the hard way, if I may say so. That’s why I have a few advices for those who want to start designing shoes the way we did:

-      Establish connections with everybody involved and try to maintain them as close as possible.

-      Never assume that somebody thinks like you or can guess what you want: always specify clearly and very detailed your wishes.

-      Lose any trace of shyness you have left in you. You have to talk to everybody and “brag” about your work.

-      Leave your creativity take control and never create anything only if you think it will sell. Create with your soul, people can see beneath the surface of a product and you are trying to sell creativity and hand made goods.

Guest post by Sinziana Nastase, one of the founders of Pixie Shoes.

Fashion show with ballerinas

I was talking about creativity in a previous post and how it applies in fashion. Just bring into fashion concepts, colors, sounds, patterns from outside the fashion.

This is what the Russian designer Tatyana Parfenova did in her latest Spring Summer 2010 fashion collection show in Moscow this week. Besides the fact that she brought a little bit of ballet in fashion, she also made a statement about the deep connection between the Russian contemporary culture and this form of dance.

“She is not the first to replace models with ballerinas - we’ve seen similar approach from the French born NYC based Malan Breton at his last NY fashion week show. Malan mixed the ballerinas with models, creating a surprising effect, while Parfionova chose to stage the entire show as a runway ballet performance.” (Yuli Ziv on Myitthings.com)

By Catalina Rusu